There and back again: A short adventure out west to Carnarvon Gorge

Sunrise at Carnarvon Gorge with Nyree, Sara and Mads Johnson.

On a sunny Tuesday afternoon and with full-time work commitments at the front of my mind, all responsibilities were abandoned, and an adventure to Carnarvon Gorge with my two girls was undertaken. Four hours of annual leave, a Wednesday rostered day off and a journey five hours southwest sparked a 30-hour round trip adventure from Rockhampton to Carnarvon Gorge and back again in time for work at 7 am on a Thursday.

I say yes to a lot of things. Yes, to adventures. Yes, to living life to the fullest and yes, to having no regrets. With a strong sense of self and a driving force to maximise every opportunity and provide experiences for my children, I find ways to make things work rather than see the reasons why for example, that it might not practical to trek to Carnarvon Gorge from Rockhampton on a Tuesday in the middle of a school and work week.

My family first visited Carnarvon Gorge in 2019, just after Christmas. It was that time just before the pandemic interrupted our lives, and we were four years into business as small business owners. Two of those years in a brick-and-mortar business with no backup salary meant the slow period was one we made the most of. Having always wanted to venture to Carnarvon Gorge, I decided to see what our options for a post-Christmas stay were, encompassing that time between Christmas and New Year’s when only a little really happened. Little did I know we were planning to visit in the off-peak season.

At the time of booking in 2019 and when I discovered we had our pick of the park, I asked why, naïve of course, but the person on the end of the phone taking my campsite booking shared that it was simply too hot for avid travellers. Never one to be scared off by the weather, I booked anyway, and our family of five ventured to Takaraka Bush Resort with plans of hikes each day to explore the Gorge.

With any adventure in the unknown, it’s essential to check with the locals about what to look out for. The best advice we received based on the time of year we were visiting was to get up early, plan our adventure and ensure we were out of the Gorge by 11 am. This left us with around four hours a day to hike.

We explored almost every trail through Carnarvon Gorge and planned our days wisely. With an adventure scheduled for each morning and a return by lunch, what followed for the afternoon was a swim in the creek and a cold shower. We were prepared for the heat, but it was extreme, and to this day, I can remember the most unbearable part of the day being between 11 am and 4 pm. A big stretch, I know, but with cold showers, swims, shade and a battery fan, we made it work, just.

The landscape of Carnarvon Gorge changes as the time of day changes, and, as the season changes. You see things that weren’t there a moment earlier, and when you listen closely, you can hear the country speak to you. Not in the traditional sense, although that’s not impossible, but in a way in which you feel the messages shared.

The sunrise and sunset fills the sky with stunning colours, exuding vibrance and calm simultaneously. No camera can truly capture the beauty I see with my own eyes, although that doesn’t stop me from searching for a lens that will.

In 2019 Sara was just five years old, turning six in January, shortly after our stay. Our hikes were big for a small child, but she trooped through, sometimes carried by Nathan. Admittedly, this probably fuels her dislike for hiking these days, but as an active Scout, she must push on because it’s all part of the adventure. She’s learning to love it, or at least that’s what I tell myself. I know for sure, though, that the destination, views and experiences along the way are worth the hike, and I know she loves the scenery just as much as I do.

On this 2023 Tuesday afternoon adventure, only the girls and I ventured to Carnarvon Gorge. A withdrawal from school for two days, four hours of annual leave and a rostered day off to make the most of. It was a uniquely memorable experience and was initiated thanks to an invitation to participate in something incredible. It was an opportunity that I couldn’t say no to.

Sunrises and sunsets are my favourite part of the day, and I could see both on our whirlwind trip. The scenery is breathtaking, and the feminine connection to the country is felt when I enter the region. Privileged to be guided and welcomed by an indigenous woman from the country, the adventure embodied a sense of belonging, connection and purpose, not just with each other but with this world.

Communal meals, shared stories, next to no mobile phone reception and a slower pace enabled a style of learning which far exceeded that offered in a classroom. Learning the culture and history of the Gorge was the highlight in parallel to spending quality time with my girls. While the time of year was tricky to navigate because of end-of-term assessments, I recognise I have very clever and capable girls, but I know I’m not raising academics. I’m raising children who value life skills, a sense of purpose and belonging, community and service. A sense of being part of something bigger than themselves and with an ability to connect with the country, people and our history. It’s opportunities like these which cultivate that life-learning environment.

I’m looking forward to sharing the purpose of this adventure when it can be released, but for now, it’s our special experience.

PS – Happy birthday for yesterday, Mum